A taste of luxury at The Lodge at Ashford Castle

HELEN MCGURK visits this amazing place near Cong, Co Mayo, and never wants to leave

It’s not something I ever imagined doing; walking through woodland, wearing a heavy leather glove, waiting for a two-pound Harris hawk to swoop down on my arm and snaffle the rats’ tails and chicken innards from my fist.

Yet, that’s exactly the surreal situation I found myself in recently during a staycation in captivating Connemara.

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My family and I were guests at The Lodge at Ashford Castle, beside the ridiculously pretty village of Cong, made famous by John Ford’s 1952 pastoral, romantic film, The Quiet Man, starring John Wayne and Maureen O’Hara.

Helen's son with a Harris hawkHelen's son with a Harris hawk
Helen's son with a Harris hawk

The Lodge at Ashford Castle offers a range of activities, including kayaking (squally Storm Ellen put paid to that idea), archery, horse riding, zip-wiring and falconry - an arcane activity I had previously associated with posh, Barbour-jacketed, Hunter-wellied types.

But, as I was to discover, you need neither possess a toffee nose nor plummy vowels to enjoy falconry, all you really require is a sense of wonder and appreciation of the hard-won trust between hawk and human - and this from someone with mild ornithophobia (blame the beaks, the beady eyes and Hitchcock’s sinister crows).

Situated within the magnificent 365-acre estate at Ashford Castle, the elegant, white-washed Lodge is a four-star boutique hotel, perched on a hill overlooking Lisloughrey Harbour and Lough Corrib, one of Ireland’s largest lakes.

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Ireland’s School of Falconry is located in the grounds of the estate, which allows for snooping opportunities around the gardens of the lavish Ashford Castle, which was built by Sir Arthur Guinness in the 19th century and has boasted a number of world-famous guests over the years, from Oscar Wilde to John Lennon and Brad Pitt.

The stunning view from the hotelThe stunning view from the hotel
The stunning view from the hotel

Our ‘hawk walk’ was led by Mel, a knowledgeable and expert instructor, who introduced us to the handsome hawks we’d be taking for a dander around the beautiful castle grounds and woodlands.

My feathered friend was ‘Beckett’, named after Samuel, the famous Irish writer, whom it’s often said, resembled a hawk, whilst my son had ‘Joyce’, named after that other Irish literary great.

At first, it’s discombobulating to walk with a hawk on your arm and I notice the apprehension in my son’s eyes, but we both soon relax into it.

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When Joyce is released, she takes off for a high branch, graceful and perfect, flying from tree to tree. When I put my raised arm out, she swoops down, a blur of beak and wings, onto the perch of my arm, and when I open my hand she takes her quarry with dramatic gusto. It is beautiful, magical and primal, a rush that is unlike any other I have experienced. My son loves it too, proclaiming it be the ‘best thing’ he’s ever done. Praise indeed.

The Lodge at Ashford Castle has a country house vibe, with quirky touches and an Art Deco feel. There are book-lined shelves, antique furnishings and Persian rugs. The lobby’s custardy-yellow walls are decorated with unusual paintings and artwork by big names including Damian Hirst and Andy Warhol.

This eye-catching interior design continues throughout the hotel.

We stayed in the luxurious Luskin Suite, named after the Luskin family, who sail Lough Corrib daily.

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A palatial space with a sitting room opening on to a bedroom, the decor is striking; French blues and white, with sumptuous, velvety headboards, a mirrored wall and Art-Deco style furniture. Doors open out on to a patio and original artworks by surrealist Julian Trevelyan dot the walls.

Beds are super king and super comfy and the suite has all the modern comforts one would expect of such an establishment, including flat screen TV, underfloor heating in the bathroom and oversized rain showers. I was particularly taken with the beautifully fragranced toiletries by The Handmade Soap Company.

The Lodge at Ashford Castle is home to Wilde’s Restaurant - a fine dining establishment that offers exquisite contemporary Irish cuisine in a stunning setting. Under the inspired direction of Jonathan Keane, hailed as one of the country’s most exciting chefs and with many award nominations to his name, it has become a popular destination not just for local foodies but visitors from afar.

Jonathan creates a variety of delicious dishes that showcase the unique flavours and textures of the finest local produce, from succulent Irish beef and lamb to fish and seafood fresh from the waters of Galway Bay and the Connemara coastline.

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We had our own window seat, with views over the lough, whilst black and white Terry O’Neill photographs of Liz Taylor, Bing Crosby and Faye Dunaway looked on as we tucked into a superlative meal of spiced monktail and wild halibut. Mrs Tollman’s amazing rice pudding with caramelised nuts and salted caramel sauce was, pardon the pun, divine ambrosia.

In the morning, Wilde’s morphs into the breakfast room, complete with the classic Irish breakfast, charcuterie and cheese, and granola with Velvet Cloud Sheep’s Yoghurt - the latter, I can confirm , was divine.

In addition to Wilde’s, guests can also dine or enjoy a cocktail in the vibrant Quay Bar and Brasserie, again with fun design touches - I loved the palm tree light and comfy leather chairs.

Unlike other establishments, there’s no real need to leave the estate as there’s so much on offer right where you are.

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Indeed, the estate’s grounds are larger than the adjoining Cong - so sprawling, in fact, you are given a map at check-in (as well as hand sanitizer and masks for the times that are in it).

In the mornings, you can join the Castle’s Irish Wolfhounds for their daily constitutional through the woods. Have a brew in Mrs Tea’s Boutique and Bakery, enjoy a spot of golf on the nine-hole course or take a cruise around the Lough. There’s bike hire on offer or you can simply enjoy a leisurely stroll around this remarkably beautiful estate, even amble through the greenhouses where they grow a lot of their own herbs and vegetables.

The Lodge at Ashford Castle will suit all tastes, whether you enjoy simply lounging around or, like us, love to be on the go. We were blown away by the place. The whole estate is like something from a fairy-tale. The staff are wonderful, the scenery sublime, and the hawks - well, they caused all our hearts to flutter.

Factfile

Prices start from €195 / £176 for a Courtyard Deluxe Room including full Irish breakfast and three-course meal in the Quay Bar

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Complimentary bike hire and complimentary access to golf and tennis courts. Subject to availability and selected dates only. The We Are Family offer is perfect for families looking to holiday at home this year with two- and three-bedroom suites available. For more information call +353 94 954 5400 or visit: www.thelodgeac.com

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