Never too early for wonderful festive wine

Christmas is coming, the goose is getting fat.

Please to put your pennies in Raymond Gleug's battered old Panama hat. Yes, it's almost here again, our Advent calendars have begun the great countdown and, as every year, to try to save you some money on your Christmas booze without compromising on quality, it's little old moi, the one and only Raymond Gleug himself.

Aka "The Gleugster", according to Oswald, my very trendy young nephew. Feel free to throw any spare change into my hat for, Lord knows, I might need it very soon.

First among near equals but just about gaining the nod as today's Wine of the Week, by no more than the shortest of short heads to be sure to be sure is the easy-drinking, versatile and gloriously refreshing 2022 Society's Chenin Blanc Stellenbosch (£8.50, The Wine Society, 01438-741177 or www.thewinesociety.com).

This fabulously fresh, zesty South African white is full of sharp lime and gentler tropical fruit flavours on a lively palate alongside notes of mineral and alluring floral aromatics before a lingering, discreetly acidic finish. An ideal match to turkey.

In Winter months, I generally prefer reds to whites. I also prefer goose to turkey. A wine for any other lovers of geese to consider for their festive spreads is the big, bold and intensely fruity 2018 Nugan McLaren Vale Shiraz (£10, SuperValu).

A smooth, exuberantly juicy palate with pronounced notes of plum and black cherry leads to a satisfyingly lengthy finish with luxurious strands of vanilla and just a hint of dark, bitter chocolate. It will also be a fine accompaniment to roast beef or even a succulent fillet steak.

Before we get to our main courses we'll want some fizz to enjoy with our canapes and starters which in my own lovely home, Rose Cottage, means smoked salmon blinis followed by prawn cocktail. A splash of pink seems mandatory.

Today's third selection is the delicate, delightfully dry, brick-red Maurice Bonnamy Cremant de Loire (£10, SuperValu). Teeming with bright redcurrant, strawberry and lemon flavours, this ferociously lively and crisp sparkling rose will also go wonderfully well with simply cooked fish or poultry.

Last but by no means least today is our final contender for the Christmas table and it's another one for all you turkey fanatics. I love an auld Picpoul and Lidl's zippy, upbeat and ineffably soft 2021 Le Rocher de Saint Victor Picpoul de Pinet (£7.49, Lidl) ticks all the festive boxes.

A luscious palate full of round, gently spiced fruit flavours with rich citrussy backnotes combines with richly scented grassy aromatics. This elegant, well-structured Languedoc white has an abundance of pronounced peach and citrus flavours which mingle most pleasantly with backnotes of fresh green herbs. it will also go extremely well with seafood or mild, creamy curries.

Perhaps you think it's too early to start thinking about these things? I disagree. With food and wine, as with so many of life's most sensuous pleasures, the joy lies in planning and anticipation. If you know what I mean.

I'm sure you do. So I'd like to conclude today with a little-known fact about the phenomenal heroism of Santa. Apparently, he doesn't actually enjoy squeezing himself down chimneys. You see, like the Gleugster himself, he suffers from Claus-trophobia. Boom boom! Till next week, tipplers, sante!