John’s creating simple meals from local food

He’s brought the expertise and knowledge gained at Hartnett’s acclaimed Merchant Tavern in London’s Shoreditch to his new role as Head Chef in the award-winning Brunel’s Restaurant in Newcastle, Co Down, his home town.

“Working for Angela was an unforgettable experience and I learned so much,” John, 43, remembers. “She emphasised the importance of good, honest, seasonal food from the very best ingredients. Her advice was always to focus on the food but not to stress about it or anything else in the kitchen. Merchant’s Tavern was a great school and a relaxed environment which served really creative and delicious food.

“Angela has enjoyed an impressive career. She worked with celebrity chef Gordon Ramsay, launching Murano in Mayfair in 2013, now one of the few restaurants in London with a Michelin star, no fewer than four AA rosettes and rated among the top 50 restaurants in 2015.”

Born in the popular seaside holiday hub and in the shadow of the iconic Mournes, John learned basic cooking skills from his mother at home but didn’t seriously consider a career in food preparation as a young man.

He initially carried an interest in maths to university in Coventry and subsequently explored different career options including jobs in pubs, including the Anchor Bar and the original Brunel’s in Newcastle, in his twenties. He then decided “to see something of the world” and set out on a journey that took him to New Zealand.

He learned to cook the hard way…feeding himself and fellow workers on a remote sheep farm in a rural community on South Island.

“I learned to cook a number of makeshift dishes with seasonal ingredients including goat curry,” he remembers. “Overall, I enjoyed my time there and also learned a great deal.”

What it also did was reawaken his interest in food preparation. Heading home, John took up a position as commis chef at the Merchant Tavern in London and was appointed head chef in just over five years. He then switched to Café Murano as sous chef and developed a passion for Italian food. He also cooked at the French House in Soho, under Neil Borthwick, another distinguished chef. He also worked for other celebrity chefs such as Jamie Oliver, Tom Kerridge and Tom Kitchin.

He was subsequently approached by Fiona Davey, the general manager at Brunel’s, to see if he would be interested in returning home as the restaurant’s new head chef.

“I was interested in returning home during the coronavirus pandemic when hospitality outlets in London and across the UK were shuttered. I was delighted to accept Fiona’s offer at Brunel’s, a restaurant I had been involved with before moving to London. I took over the kitchen in July as hospitality began to recover from the lockdowns,” he explains.

“I was thrilled to joining Brunel’s and have great plans for the future. Brunel’s has a tremendous reputation for food and customer service, and I’m honoured to be driving it forward as head chef. This has given me the opportunity to work closely with local producers, showcasing the abundance of fine, seasonal produce available here.”

Fiona takes up the story, saying: “John has brought his creativity, leadership and extensive experience working in top restaurants across London back to his hometown of Newcastle. High quality food and drink and exceptional service are a fundamental part of our offering, and it is great to welcome John to lead the team here as he will provide a culinary experience to match the fantastic produce and landscape from which it comes.

“His passion is the elevation of simple flavours, quality ingredients and beautiful presentation, and although he has only been in the kitchen a short while, he has already left a great impression on visitors to Brunel’s.”

Originally opened in 2014, Brunel’s quickly established an outstanding reputation for service and fine dining. Exceptional customer demand led to a new 70-seater restaurant with a brand new state-of-the-art kitchen in central Newcastle in October 2017.

John’s focus will be on “creating dishes that focus on the seasons of the produce, creating a menu that evolves constantly and where possible showcasing what is on offer locally”.

He adds: “We are immensely fortunate in Northern Ireland to have some of the best food and drink in the world. Brunel’s has always focused on local suppliers of ingredients especially from the wider Newcastle area. I am expanding this commitment. The region has wonderful seafood, and shellfish, and delicious meat especially superb Mourne lamb.”

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