Northern Ireland's smoked eels and cheese scoop top food awards from the Irish Food Writers’ Guild (IFWG)

Influential members of the Dublin-based Irish Food Writers’ Guild (IFWG), a body which includes many of the island’s leading food and drink journalists, gave smoked eels and cheese from Ballylisk of Armagh the top food awards at a high-profile lunch and awards, now in their 30th year, last week.

The citation for the smoked eels said: “a Lough Neagh eel is a curious thing”. “Born in the Sargasso Sea, the young elvers gradually make their way across the wild Atlantic to mature in the largest freshwater lake on the island of Ireland. It’s a unique habitat and one which ensures that Lough Neagh eels are renowned for their flavour and texture.”

Pat Close, chairman of the Lough Fishermen’s Co-operative, which produced the smoked eels, said: “We are hugely honoured to have been recognised by the guild. Just eight prestigious awards were presented. We feel very privileged to be held among some of the top producers in Ireland.

“The award is a major endorsement for the co-operative in our drive to develop value-added products from the eels and thereby increase income for the co-operative’s fishermen and their families around the lough.”

In 1965, the co-operative was set up to safeguard the traditional methods of catching eels. In 2011, Lough Neagh eel joined an illustrious line-up of foods such as champagne, gorgonzola and Parma ham when it was awarded PGI (Protected Geographical Indication) status by the EU. In line with careful conservation guidelines, the co-operative now catches and processes around 220 tonnes of Lough Neagh Eel annually.

The citation for Ballylisk of Armagh cheese described the small company’s range as “a real taste of Armagh”.

“Mark Wright, one of the fifth generation of the Wright family, who grew up on the family farm at Ballylisk, Co Armagh, makes Ballylisk’s Triple Rose. This white mould ripened, single-herd, triple cream cheese was Armagh’s first farm-produced cheese. Since developing and launching the flagship Triple Rose, Ballylisk has gone on to make two more gorgeous cheeses. There is also a range of accompaniments, notably a balsamic Bramley apple chutney, to complement the cheeses.”

Mark has been in cheese production since 2016, when he began collaborating with Loughry College’s Food Technology Centre in Cookstown. In 2017, Ballylisk Dairies set up a bespoke production facility in Portadown, a short distance from the family farm. It is an exceptionally professional operation in every way, from the research undertaken for product development, to the branding and packaging, online sales and retail distribution.

Mark said: “We are thrilled by this recognition of the quality and taste of our current range of cheeses in one of our most important markets. The endorsement by such an influential body should held as we step up our endeavours to grow our business in the Republic.”

Caroline Hennessy, IFWG chair, explained: “Since the Food Award’s inception, each winner has been chosen independently and anonymously by our members, recognising the best in Irish food by shining a light on smaller producers who might otherwise slip under the radar. From traditional products of the highest quality to new innovations, this year’s winners exemplify what is so exciting about Ireland’s food and drink industry right now.”

Caroline continued: “When the IFWG Food Awards began in 1993, it was with the aim of promoting and celebrating Ireland’s indigenous food producers and, as Ireland’s artisan food scene has developed and flourished, our core principles have remained true.

“Guild members have always shared a passion for nurturing a proud and vibrant Irish food culture. Thirty years on from those first awards, we are fortunate to live in a country where there is more attention paid to the food we eat, to who is producing it and how it is produced. Many of the winners from the early years are still familiar names today, proof of their enduring quality and we have no doubt that this year’s cohort of winners will continue that legacy.”

Una Fitzgibbon, Bord Bia’s director of marketing, which sponsors the IFWG Food Awards, added: “We are delighted to support The Irish Food Writers’ Guild as it consistently highlights the outstanding quality, craftsmanship and innovation in Ireland’s artisan food industry through these awards.”