Superb cured pork from Curly Pigs in Fermanagh thanks to couples' passionate about environment

A range of cured meats has been produced by Stephen and Rachael McMaster under the Curly Pigs brand on their small holding in woodlands near Tempo from the ancient Mangalitza pigs, once the Hungarian Royal breed that’s known for the high-fat marbling in the meat.

The couple’s unique brand reflects the woolly coats of the breed that make them particularly well-suited to our cold and wet climate. The meat has been compared favourably with Japanese Kobe or Wagyu beef prized by chefs in particular for their distinctive marbling.

The initial range of charcuterie meats was launched successfully by the couple at this month’s Fermanagh Agricultural Show and has drawn the interest of chefs here and in the Republic of Ireland.

The unusual pigs are free to roam and forage the woodlands around the couple’s small holding. The range of cured meats already includes various types of salami such as nduja, fennel and chorizo. Other meats available are lomo and copa.

Lardo is also prized by gourmet chefs and is based on the high quality fat from the pigs.

“Our vision is to produce high welfare pork and high-quality charcuterie from this incredibly unique Mangalitza breed,” explains Stephen, 41, a joiner by trade.

“Our journey started seven years ago when we bought a pig and five weaners for the production of Christmas hams.”

They quickly realised, however, that the pigs weren’t suitable for what they had in mind and that the distinctive Mangalitza breed was best for specialist meats due to the high fat content. So, they switched focus to develop a range cured meats, a decision which required them to learn all about charcuterie.

“As a result of this, our focus is to provide local people with high-end meat that is free-range, high welfare, antibiotic and chemical-free, sustainable and treated with the utmost of respect, as naturally as possible,” explains Stephen. “We’ve started to produce what we believe is exceptional charcuterie that’s already won praise from a leading chef in Dublin.”

The small company has also attracted the attention of Fermanagh’s Belle Isle estate that’s respected for its culinary courses.

They are both passionate about preserving the local environment.

This Hungarian royal breed, Stephen says, not only has a regal heritage, but it is also “packed full of health benefits too”.

“The richly flavoured meat is marbled with bright white fat - and fat means flavour! This pure fat not only means it melts in the mouth but it is also packed with Omega 3 fatty acids too!”

The same mono-unsaturated oleic acids are found in olive and avocado oils.

“These are fats that we now know are beneficial for us,” he adds.

The couple’s dedication to farming sustainably and the wellbeing of the pigs is also seen in the 64-strong flock being free to roam the forest floor around the small farm. The pigs also benefit from a rich and quality natural diet of barley, flaked maize, and a pea/bean mix that enhances the flavour of the meat. No additive or fillers are used in the process.

“As our Mangalitzas are free-range, they have access to a lot of natural Fermanagh foods they find on the forest floor and around our land, which can mean anything from beech nuts, acorns to roots, bramble leaves, and even ivy in moderation,” explains Stephen. “We are incredibly lucky to have friends who have an orchard, and any windfalls they kindly donate to use for our pigs. We also press apples every year to make apple juice and cider and the spent apples get to go to the pigs."

Stephen also used his joinery skills and wider building experience to create the special room for curing and air-drying the meats at the home he also built.

In addition, the enterprising couple widened their knowledge and honed their skills by signing up for an expert course at the acclaimed School of Artisan Foods at Welbeck in Nottingham.

“We gained a good grounding in charcuterie products from the experts at the school,” Stephen says. “The course there was extremely important to us as we seek to develop our range of meats. We’re passionate about creating high-welfare meat that is ethical and sustainable.”⠀