​Wonderful wine consoles old dads and birthday boys alike

While alcohol is a depressant and one's intake of the devil's buttermilk should be carefully monitored, it can on the one hand promote great cheerfulness and bonhomie whilst likewise with the same hand it may also soothe us in times of sorrow or distress.I mention all this because this week promises to be a time of great mourning for me as I bid farewell once more to my youth. Reluctantly, I must commemorate the ending of one year and the beginning of yet another of my too short life on this God-forsaken planet. By contrast, you will all (I hope) be celebrating the joys of summer at your barbecues and garden parties in glorious sunshine. Happily, for us all, I have managed to find a wonderful dual-purpose wine, perfect for both you and me. And also for our beloved dads who, don't forget, we have to be nice to tomorrow. I'm nice to my own Da, the mercurial Cornelius Gleug, most days but I'll be redoubling my efforts tomorrow by inviting the old codger round to my lovely home, Rose Cottage, for a sumptuous Father's Day feast.First among near equals but just about gaining the nod by no more than the length of a well-smoked cigarette to be sure to be sure to be sure as today's Wine of the Week is the elegant, soft and supple 2020 St Emilion Grand Cru (£14.99, Lidl). This intriguing, medium-bodied Bordeaux red has an opulent palate full of blackberry and plum flavours which combine with subtle strands of tobacco and tar before a magnificently lengthy, deeply satisfying finish with hints of spice and dark, bitter chocolate. It will do quite nicely for old men like my father and I seeking consolation and solace as we contemplate mortality while it will also be a wonderful match to all your burgers and steaks as you party the night away without a care. Like we used to do. When we were young. Long, long ago.

Enough of this cosmic existential dread! You don't want to hear about my problems, do you? No. You'd much rather be drinking inexpensive white wine in the sunshine, wouldn't you? Well, despite my advancing years, I've managed to shuffle down to M&S where I happened upon the ripe, fragrant and gloriously refreshing 2022 M&S Classics Pinot Grigio (£7.50). Pronounced apple and pear flavours mingle pleasantly with brighter citrus notes and subtle spices in this delightfully dry Italian white which will go wonderfully well with mildly spiced Asian or Mediterranean cuisine.

Just one more wine and I'm done- last Saturday was National Rose Day which I forgot to mention to you but no matter, you can enjoy a splash of pink just as much this Saturday. Today's final selection is the zesty, elegant, thoroughly refreshing and upbeat 2022 Moschofilero Assyrtiko (£10, M&S). This crisp and complex Greek rose made from highly distinctive, indigenous grapes has a fulsome floral bouquet which leads to pronounced red berry and forest fruit flavours. Nicely balanced with hints of sharper citrus on a rich palate before a brisk, tingly and mouth-wateringly fresh finish. An ideal match to poultry or seafood

And that's it, I'm done! For this year anyway. Wish me luck as I approach what my darling wife, the enigmatic Madame G., insists upon describing as a minor birthday. I explain to her that in this country no birthday is bigger than one's 21st. And this will be either the 30th or is it 40th anniversary of that historic day. Long, long ago... If that's not worth celebrating, I don't know what is. Till next week, tipplers, sante!