An Occasional Tipple: Bah humbug and birthday wine
I have only one complaint to make about Christmas and it’s not even about Christmas.


It’s about people who have their birthdays at Christmas time or, worse still, in the mouth of Christmas or, worse again, at its tail end. They all say the same thing (put on mock-whiny voice): ‘oh, when I was I growing up my birthday was always forgotten about because of Christmas so I think I’m entitled to just a wee bit of a fuss now.’
Well, to that I say both bah and humbug!
You see, if these people had even the slightest degree of empathy, they’d realise that for the rest of us time is tight, pockets threadbare and energies both low and scattered.
And they’d say: no, no, don’t make a fuss, we can do something in the New Year. Something small. But no - it’s all bake me a fancy cake, let’s go to Florence for a few days on the19th and what I’d really like most of all this year is a big fat diamond-encrusted platinum ring.
It’s enough to drive a man to drink- on which note today’s first selection and a surefire contender for your Christmas table is today’s WINE OF THE WEEK, the exceptionally fresh, fragrant, zippy and zesty 2023 Masseria Metrano Fiano Salento (£8, Lidl). A luscious palate full of round, gently spiced fruit flavours with bright citrussy backnotes combines with grassy aromatics and hints of mineral in this racy, refreshing Italian white.
Lovers of red, I have not one but two exciting Argentinian numbers which will go well with game, turkey, goose, even steaks i.e. all the usual suspects. First up is the lithesome, supple and satisfyingly complex 2023 Finca Las Moras Malbec (£7, Tesco). Ripe, muscular blackberry flavours, a warm, smoky palate and a spicy, judiciously oaked finish with hints of dark chocolate combine to create a robust, rustic and thoroughly satisfying drop.
Better still is the brash, bold and full-bodied 2022 Luna Dorada Shiraz (£8, M&S or £7.20 for four or more). Dark jammy fruit flavours, particularly blackberry and plum flavours, combine pleasingly on the palate before a lengthy finish with beguiling notes of earthy spices.
“All of Autumn’s harvest in each mellifluous mouthful”, was how my darling wife, the enigmatic Madame G., described it. She must be after my job.
What’s all this got to do with birthdays? Well, tipplers, there is a happy exception to every rule. And that exception is my magnificent mother who is celebrating a very big birthday just five days before Christmas. And is trying to insist that nobody makes a fuss.
Hard luck Ma! That’s not going to happen. We’ll be cracking open some fizz in the form of today’s final selection- the effervescent, nuanced and ferociously crisp Conte Priuli Prosecco (reduced to £7.50 from £8 or £6.75 each for 4 or more at M&S). Brimful of citrus and green apple flavours alongside hints of lemony biscuits, this extremely well-priced fizz is perfect for special occasions.
Have yours with Melba Toast and aperitifs on Christmas morn!
Or on your birthday, if you have one- just don’t go on about it please (unless your name is Mammy).
Till next week, tipplers, sante!