Review: The Great Room at The Merchant – A dining experience steeped in elegance
Since it opened its swanky doors in 2006, The Merchant Hotel has given a high-class heart to Belfast’s Cathedral Quarter.
Occupying an entire city block—stretching from Waring Street to Skipper Street and High Street—The Merchant has undergone a remarkable transformation since its 1858 beginnings as the Ulster Bank headquarters.
Over the last 19 years, I’ve visited the hotel a few times, and still find myself catching my breath each time I walk through its doors. The glamour and opulence are palpable: colossal chandeliers, cherubs adorning gilded ceilings, and a sense of grandeur that never feels dated.
Nowhere is this fin de siècle elegance more alive than in The Great Room Restaurant. Set within the former banking hall, it’s a truly breathtaking space, with intricate gold cornicing, a dramatic glass dome, and soft, flattering lighting. It’s no surprise that the restaurant has earned 2 AA Rosettes—among the UK’s most prestigious awards for culinary excellence.
On a bustling Friday summer evening, it’s lovely to see the dining room filled with a lively mix of locals and tourists, all soaking in the atmosphere. My last visit to The Great Room Restaurant was 13 years ago, for a special birthday dinner I still remember vividly. This return visit felt long overdue—and full of anticipation.
The summer menu did not disappoint. The Merchant’s chefs are known for their dedication to seasonal ingredients and thoughtful innovation, and this ethos shines throughout the menu. A full vegetarian tasting menu is also available, and diners are welcome to mix and match—which we gladly did.
Seated in a gracefully curved booth, we were well looked after by our waiter, Kiril, whose service was slick, attentive and warm without ever being intrusive.
I began with the Moroccan spiced falafel served with apricot and chilli jam and a sesame dressing. This was no ordinary falafel: crisp on the outside, soft and fragrant inside, spiced with warmth and depth. The apricot and chilli jam was the star—sweet, slightly fiery, and perfectly offset by the creamy sesame dressing. A bold, modern twist that worked beautifully.
My partner’s Dressed Lambay Island crab was equally elegant. Sweet, fresh, and full of coastal character, it was complemented by sweetcorn and elderflower, while pickled jalapeño added just the right hit of brightness and heat. Unexpected and exceptionally well-balanced.
The Girolle mushroom and pea risotto was a highlight—comforting yet refined, with the earthiness of the mushrooms and sweetness of the peas marrying beautifully. Shavings of summer truffle gave it a touch of luxury, and the sauce vierge added a delicate acidity that lifted the dish.
My partner chose the Murley Mountain lamb rump, served with kofta, aubergine, artichoke and Clandeboye yoghurt. He reported the lamb to be cooked to tender perfection, the accompaniments adding texture and depth without overshadowing the main ingredient.
To finish, I opted for the chilled apricot ‘tarte tatin’ with shortbread, mascarpone ganache, and yuzu—a clever, modern reimagining of the classic. Light, elegant, and inventive, with the yuzu providing a bright citrus lift.
The Strawberry crunch from the vegetarian menu was just as delightful. Crisp layers met a whipped passion fruit ganache that was airy and vibrant. A scoop of vanilla ice cream rounded out the dish with nostalgic comfort. Summer in every spoonful.
After dinner, we moved into The Merchant’s Cocktail Bar to experience another highlight of the summer offering: Tableside Negronis. In partnership with Enniskillen-based Boatyard Distillery and Campari, the bar has crafted three creative twists on the classic cocktail—each prepared at your table for peak freshness.
Choose from the tart, aromatic Peach; the rich, indulgent Chocolate; or the sweet, fruit-forward Strawberry. Each variation offers its own distinct character, served with flair and precision. Priced at £16.95, the cocktails are more than just a stylish indulgence—£1 from each drink is donated to SOS Bus NI, a Belfast charity offering safety and medical support to vulnerable individuals on the city’s streets.
Elegant, impactful, and utterly enjoyable—just like the rest of the evening.
The Great Room’s summer dining menu is available Monday to Friday, from 6pm to 7pm: two courses for £36.50 or three for £42.50, with an optional wine pairing—two wines for £14, or three for £19. For the quality of the cooking, the setting, and the service, this represents outstanding value.
In a city with a thriving food scene, The Great Room still feels like something special. It's not just the architecture or the sense of history—it's the way old-world elegance is matched by modern culinary ambition. A meal here still feels like an occasion, and long may that continue.