Who’s going to win the wine World Cup?

Can you imagine a World Cup of wine?

Hosted by impossibly rich Arab sheikhs who were sent to Oxford as callow youths and subsequently caved in to the temptations of the decadent West? Who know a thing or seven about luxury, sophistication and style. I expect they'd feel obliged to invite me along to Doha as a judge. I mean, how could you have a World Cup of wine without renowned bon viveur and gourmand, Raymond Gleug? That would be like having a football World Cup without Italy... What do you mean Italy didn't qualify for the World Cup?The main drawback of a wine World Cup for ourselves is that Ireland - North, South or entire - is unlikely to ever qualify - something that may be mitigated for some by the knowledge that England won't win it or even get far. Similarly, while you can never entirely write off the Germans, they're more likely to be bit players than champs. No, in the Wine World Cup, the final will be a close battle between Italy and France. France always wins.

I imagine the third place play-off would involve Argentina (whom I hope and pray will win the lesser World Cup - I drew them in the office sweep) and Spain. La viva Espana is where we head to for today's first recommendation, the smooth and well-structured 2020 Vina Zorzal Graciano Navarra (£8.95, Wine Society, www.the winesociety.com or 01438-741177). A light-bodied, juicy palate with berry and cherry flavours which are nicely balanced by firm tannins gives way to a lingering finish with black pepper and earthy spices. A natural match to goose should you be planning such festive feasts.

Replicating the magic of Maradona and Messi and with a definite hint of the hand of God is today's second selection, the soft, fruity and aromatic 2020 M&S Classics Malbec (£8.50). Ripe, blackberry flavours, a warm, smoky palate and a spicy, judiciously oaked finish with hints of dark chocolate and vanilla combine to create a rustic and satisfying Argentinian red. Try it, as we did, this weekend with lamb liver, pancetta and a rich onion gravy or with Beef Wellington.

You probably wouldn't be able to afford the runners-up in an actual Wine World Cup. Nor would I. Such is life, but the great news is that I've gone to lots of trouble to sourcing you the kind of just about affordable red that might make our World Cup judges pause for thought - the powerful, tightly structured and savoury 2020 Barolo (Lidl, £13.99). About halfway between ruby and garnet in colour, a flavoured palate blends backnotes of mushroom and truffles alongside opulent cherry and dark berry flavours. This Italian red will also be a perfect match to a rare steak and garlic fries. It will accompany my father's Boxing Day steak.

The winners of any World Cup will need some fizz so we'll conclude with today's Wine of the Week, the dry, delicate and crisp Society's Celebration Cremant de Loire (£12.95, Wine Society) which seems perfect for all parties and special occasions. Brimful of citrus and green apple flavours alongside hints of almond, this well-priced French sparkler is a welcome mouthful of summer. A perfect aperitif to for canapes.

I would like to conclude by apologising to those of you who are sick of hearing about the World Cup (or Christmas) and thought that my wine column was a safety zone. Nonetheless, it will soon pass and we can begin to savour our delicious wines in peace again. For another four years. Till next week, tipplers, sante!