Chef Niall McKenna: 'My new cookbook is a love letter to Belfast'

But his story – and passion for food – stretches much further back than that.

Born and raised in Belfast, Niall was introduced to the world of food at an early age. His mother ran an outside catering business, and his grandmother was a brilliant home cook. A young bright-eyed Niall was captivated by the hustle and bustle of the kitchen, and seeing the joy on people’s faces when they came together to share good food.

“My first job was at the Strand Restaurant, aged 14,” he recalls, “and it just spiralled from there.” That initial experience ignited a lifelong passion for food that led to honing his skills in some of the most respected kitchens in Belfast and beyond.

His early career was marked by significant stints with renowned chefs like NI’s own Paul Rankin, whose influence still resonates today. “Paul was a real mentor,” says Niall. “He was tough, but respectful, and he expected high standards from everyone in the kitchen. He really instilled a sense of pride in the work we did.”

After 12 years spent working in London, training under Michelin-starred chefs including Nico Ladenis, Marco Pierre White and the late Gary Rhodes, Niall returned to Belfast in 2003. Sensing a sea change in the city, and with the support of wife Joanne, his goal was simple: to bring back the culinary knowledge gained in London and create something new and exciting in his hometown.

The result was James Street, a restaurant that quickly became a staple of the Belfast dining scene.

“It was a challenge at first,” Niall admits. “Setting up a restaurant in Belfast wasn’t like London. It took 14 months to get everything ready, which felt like forever at the time.” Despite the obstacles, the restaurant thrived, and his vision for a refined yet approachable dining experience struck a chord with Belfast diners, locals and visitors alike.

In the years since, Niall and his wife Joanne have expanded their business, opening The Bar and Grill at James Street, followed by Hadski’s on Commercial Court, Cast & Crew in Titanic Quarter, and most recently, Waterman on Hill Street, which is also home to their popular Cookery School.

Education and training has been a focus since day one, and since 2014, Niall has led a dedicated in-house apprenticeship scheme, of which he’s immensely proud.

“It all goes back to Roscoff,” Niall says. “Paul Rankin and Eugene Callaghan trained me, they trained other leading chefs here in Belfast, who are great friends of mine. Then you feel this need to pay it forward - to reinvest in young people coming up through the ranks – supporting and training the future of our industry.”

His own businesses, concepts and venues have evolved in line with changing consumer demand, weathering difficult economic terrain and the Covid-19 Pandemic. Today, Niall and wife Joanne are focused on operations at James St, Waterman House and the Cookery School. Though they do have a new concept in motion for 2025, at their former Hadski’s site.

“This is our last project,” Niall says with a laugh. “After this, I’m done opening restaurants.”

Niall attributes much of their success to their ability to adapt and evolve. “You have to keep moving, keep changing,” he says. “Business is tough, and there’s always a new challenge around the corner - you can’t get complacent.”

For such a seasoned pro, you’d be forgiven for thinking there wouldn’t be many more ‘firsts’ left.

Yet at 53, Niall McKenna is breaking new ground once again, as he launches his debut cookbook.

What’s it All About? features a handpicked collection of 140 recipes, collected over 20 years, including iconic customer favourites from his popular Belfast restaurants, including James Street, Hadskis and Waterman.

A love letter to Belfast, the book heroes local produce from the best local suppliers and producers. Alongside mouth-watering photography of the much-loved dishes, the book features striking captures of iconic Belfast landmarks and showcases some of Niall and Joanne’s amazing art collections that have been displayed in their restaurants over the last two decades.

Following a heartfelt dedication that reads ‘For Belfast. I couldn’t have done it without you’, Niall reflects on the book’s quirky title, What’s it all About? in an introduction that sets the tone for a captivating celebration of our food, and people.

“It’s not a catchphrase, more an expression of my curiosity — a throwaway line that sparks up a bit of banter, reveals something interesting, funny or new and maybe even helps anyone within earshot to have a better day,” Niall writes in the book, explaining the inspiration behind the title.

At home, Niall likes to stick to the classics – good, wholesome food, shared with Joanne, son Conrad (16), daughter Charlotte (13), the wider family and friends - like a big roast chicken, with all the trimmings set in the centre of the table for everyone helps themselves. This ethos inspires the menus at his restaurants and it’s evident in his book too.

“The recipes are straightforward,” he explains. “I wanted the book to be accessible to everyone, whether they’re experienced cooks or just starting out.” With recipes that highlight the best of local produce, the book is a celebration of the region’s rich culinary heritage.

For Niall, it’s also a tribute to the people that have supported him along the way. His wife Joanne played a significant role in bringing the project to life. “I said to Joanne ‘I’m going to write a cookbook’. She was like, ‘ok, get on with it then,’ he laughs. “Like everything in our home life, and business, Joanne is the one that makes things happen. I’d be completely lost without her.”

As for why now, after more than 20 years in the industry, Niall’s answer is simple: “It felt like the right time. I’ve been thinking about doing a book for years, but I just hadn’t gotten around to it. After everything we’ve been through in the last few years, it felt important to take stock of where we are and what we’ve achieved.”

This is more than a cookbook. It’s a love letter to Belfast, to Niall’s family, and to the food that has shaped his life. It’s a story of passion, perseverance, and the power of believing in yourself—a story that’s far from over.

Reflecting on the last 20 years, Niall is both proud and humble. “It’s been a long journey, but I wouldn’t change a thing,” he says. “Belfast has changed so much over the years, and I’m proud to have been a part of that. But the most important thing to me is that we’ve stayed true to what we believe in—good food, good people, and hard work.”

What’s it All About? by Niall McKenna is out now. Priced £25, the cookbook is available to purchase at James Street and Waterman, via the Waterman House website www.waterman.house and in selected local stockists