Great British Menu chef Paul’s ‘secret dining experiences’ showcase coastal flavours

Great British Menu chef Paul Cunningham is at the forefront of a series of initiatives designed to promote artisan food and drink producers as part of the imaginative focus on the rich coastal flavours and culinary feasts of Newry, Mourne and Down.

He’s also led events to reduce food waste and support sustainability measures to help counter climate change in both short and long-terms.

A native of Dundrum, Co Down, Paul (35), who has vast experience as a chef and is widely respected for his work to promote local produce, has created original meals at special events such as cruises for food lovers on Carlingford ferry that also showcased artisan food and drink from the coastal area.

He’s also worked with the council to develop ‘Secret Dining Experiences’ for gourmet foodies featuring a remarkable eight course menu of local food and drink that’s been sourced from a radius of 20 miles within the Co Down region. Diners last night met at Newry and were then whisked by coach to a secret venue.

“Our aim was to introduce a select group of diners to local producers and then provide a meal of original dishes from ingredients they make,” Paul explains.

He brought to the venture his own business experience as the owner of Mourne Larder, an artisan venture that’s focused on edible herbs, wild garlic and seaweed that he forages from the slopes of the Mournes and the coastline. Novel products he’s processed under the Mourne Larder brand for sale especially to other chefs include dulse salt, smoked heather and sea truffle salt.

Foraging for natural ingredients is “the backbone of his cooking”, he says. He can be found “exploring the coastline and fields around Dundrum and Newcastle for edible ingredients to create different and original flavours”.

Paul, furthermore, describes his cooking style as being “local ingredient-led with very strong flavours”.

“It’s all about flavours with me; there’s no point a dish looking great if it doesn’t taste good too,” he continues. “Taste is easily the most important thing for me. This is one of the reasons why I opt for food from the local area. I know I can count on it being both fresher, tastier and traceable,” adds Paul

Another key role for Paul is brokering collaborations between smaller producers in the cluster within the coastal flavours. Among the cluster members are Rostrevor’s NearyNogs Chocolate Markers and Killowen Distillery, a producer of premium whiskeys, gin, rum and poitin; Castlescreen Farm’s Dexter beef and other meats from Downpatrick; Rademon Estate Distillery, which produces Shortcross gin and single malt whiskey, in Crossgar; and Whitewater Brewery in Castlewellan.

Paul, a father of two young children, explains: “The cluster is seeking to integrate local authentic food and drink businesses with tourism providers in a collaboration to create great visitor experiences that showcase the region’s superb food and drink.”

The cluster is funded under the Rural Tourism Collaborative Experience of the Department of Agriculture, Environment and Rural Affairs.

Other pioneering food initiatives he’s supported include ‘Sustainable Dining’ at the historic and recently refurbished Banana Block in Portview Trade Centre on the lower Newtownards Road in Belfast.

The imaginative event featured talks and discussions about waste and sustainability along with a five course menu of original dishes cooked by Paul using binned food such as discarded potato skins. He shared the event with UK food journalist and broadcaster Dan Saladino, author of the acclaimed Eating to Extinction book.

Paul was reared to respect nature, the land and local food by his father and grandfather who both grew herbs. His journey in food started at six with his grandfather, a keen forager and grew a lot himself. “I was there with him all the time and that’s where my love of food and nature came from,” he continues.

He cherishes the experience and knowledge from his grandfather, learning about respecting the landscape, about using the earth to grow fresh fruit and vegetables, and about the best spots for “wonderful shellfish, sea vegetables and herbs that are readily available, if you know where to look”.

His first food role was as a kitchen porter and dishwasher in a Dundrum restaurant at the age of 12 at weekends and during the school holidays.

He started cooking at 14. “The day I left school, I went straight to Belfast Tech and got my Level 2 and 3 culinary qualifications. I passed with flying colours and never missed a day,” Paul remembers.

Roles at a number of successful restaurants followed including joint ownership of a highly regarded eatery in Newcastle. He’s been acclaimed the best chef in Ireland and twice featured on BBC’s popular Great British Menu.

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